At Niche in the Lower East Side, which is temporarily closed, there was a chile mushroom tomato mazemen. Usually, itameshi dishes make a one-off appearance on menus: There’s a dry mushroom ramen with roasted pancetta, porcini butter, truffle oil, fried shallots, and parmesan at Chelsea’s Jun-Men that is essentially ramen carbonara topped with a dollop of uni. Indeed, New York has its own kissaten in the Lower East Side’s Davelle, where a cozy brunch reminiscent of what could be found on the hit show Midnight Diner includes bowls of Napolitan spaghetti, mentai spaghetti, and uni spaghetti. “But one of the things that draws cooks like me to Japan in the first place is the tradition and ritual and doing one thing really, really well. You mostly find that dish at a kissaten, like an old-fashioned coffee shop,” Orkin says. Does it taste good? Then it’s great.”Ī post shared by DAVELLE Japan, doing a mentaiko spaghetti is not even Italian. If you don’t, people either get pissy or confused. “In America, you can’t just put something on the menu without saying its origin or explaining it or why you did it. As soon as it’s been accepted, people don’t question it,” says Ivan Orkin, who famously upended ramen culture in Tokyo by, among other tricks, adding roasted tomatoes. “Japan is a lot like New York: It doesn’t have any rules because anything you do in Japan automatically becomes Japanese. The menu ranges from crispy panko-crusted eggplant katsu to bomboloncini, a playful combination that combines fried Italian doughnuts with mochi along with Nutella, toasted sesame, and hazelnut. In Nolita, Kimika has been the most prominent champion of itameshi since it debuted on Kenmare Street near Bowery a year ago. There is one cuisine, however, that is having an only-in-New-York moment like never before: Itameshi, the Japanese spin on Italian food. Since the pandemic, the number of best sushi restaurants and pricey omakase menus to rustic pasta joints and modern Italian steakhouses continues to proliferate. It’s not a stretch to call out Japanese and Italian food among the most popular in New York City.
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